The Wallet Shoppe
A good leather bag or backpack can last for decades, but only if you look after it. And did you know that the type of leather (and its finish) changes how you should care for it?
Cleaning to conditioning, storage to protection - we’ve got you covered!
The one rule that comes before all the others: check the maker’s care instructions first. Smooth leather, suede and patent finishes need different treatment, and a product that’s great on one can leave a permanent mark on another.
Cleaning
First, keep your leather bags clean.
Use a lightly damp cloth to wipe down the surface, but be careful not to saturate it! Leather is permeable and will soak water deep into the material. Avoid harsh chemicals and abrasive cloths, which can strip the leather’s natural oils and cause cracking or discoloration.
For tougher marks, use a leather cleaner made for your bag’s type of leather. Test it on a small, hidden area first, let it dry, and check for any change in color or texture. Follow the instructions on the label, and don’t over-apply it! Use a soft cloth to apply the cleaner, then wipe the leather dry with a clean one.
Ink and oil stains are the exception. Cleaners can spread them, and Coach’s care instructions, for example, warn against using its cleaner on ink, grease or oil. On a valuable bag, that’s a job for a leather-care specialist.
Let the bag dry naturally, away from direct sun and heat, and make sure it’s completely dry before you put it away, or you’re inviting mold and mildew. For smaller items, see our leather wallet cleaning guide.
Conditioning
Leather is a natural material, and smooth leathers can dry out over time, which leads to cracking. A conditioner moisturizes the leather and keeps it soft and supple.
Conditioners come as oils, creams and sprays. Choose one made for your bag’s leather and finish: oils tend to suit old, dried-out leather (and will usually darken it), while creams are gentler for maintaining newer leather. We’re big fans of Chamberlain’s Leather Milk.
Clean the bag first, then apply the conditioner in a thin, even layer with a soft cloth. Let it absorb for a few minutes and wipe off the excess, keeping the bag out of direct sun while it does. Then repeat when the leather starts to feel dry, not on a fixed calendar; a bag you use daily will need it more often than one in the closet. (And conditioner doesn’t double as sunscreen or waterproofing.)
Protection
Avoid leaving leather in strong sun or heat for long periods; it dries out, cracks and fades. Protect it from rain too, as moisture can cause staining or mold.
A water and stain repellent spray made for leather helps by creating a barrier that makes liquids bead up. When using one, it’s important to…
You guessed it:
Follow the instructions on the label! And, as always, test the spray on a small, hidden area before you do the whole bag. Even then, it doesn’t make the bag waterproof.
Suede and Nubuck
Suede and nubuck need special care. Don’t put ordinary smooth-leather cream or oil on them. Use a suede brush (and a suede eraser for marks), the cleaner the maker recommends, and a protective spray approved for suede or nubuck. And try not to get them wet in the first place.
Patent, Coated and Bonded Leather
A shiny patent or coated finish needs its own care instructions, because conditioner can’t get through the coating. Avoid household solvents and abrasive cleaners.
The same goes for bonded leather (shredded leather fibers held together with a binder): wipe it with a damp cloth and keep it dry. If the coating starts peeling, no amount of conditioner will glue it back down. Our guide to the grades of leather explains what the labels mean.
Storage
Proper storage is an essential step to keep leather goods looking their best.
Store your bags somewhere cool and dry, away from direct sunlight and heat. Stuff them lightly with clean, unprinted paper or a bag insert to hold their shape, but don’t overstuff them and stretch the leather. Use a breathable dust cover (not a plastic bag, which traps moisture), and don’t leave a heavy load hanging from the straps for weeks.
Before You Go…
It’s worth restating: check the care instructions before you clean or condition anything. And always, always, always test on a small, hidden area first.
Leather comes from cows, sheep, goats and even more exotic animals, and every type has its own character. Have a high-quality leather bag? It deserves good cleaners and conditioners, so this living, breathing material lasts.
Be sure to read our next article, where we go into more detail: The Five Different Grades of Leather
